Hanoi is a fine place to shop and features Vietnamese specialties such as silk, silver, lacquer ware, embroidered goods, and ethnic minority crafts. Silk is good quality and an easy buy. Shops will tailor a suit in as little 24 hours, but allow yourself extra time for alterations. Many of the shops are clustered along Hang Gai St., aka "Silk Street," on the northeast side of the Old Quarter. Daily hours are generally from 8am to 9pm. A silk suit will run from about US$25 to US$65, depending on the silk, and a blouse or shirt will cost US$15 to US$20. Virtually every shop takes credit cards (MC, V). Bargain hard for all but the silk; offer 50% of the asking price and end up paying 70% or so.

Khai Silk, with branches in various hotel lobbies and at 96 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/825-4237) and 121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. (tel. 04/823-3508), is justly famous for its selection, silk quality, and relatively pleasant store layout. Also try Thanh Ha Silk, 114 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/928-5348), and Oriental House, 28 Nha Chung (tel. 04/828-5542). Tan My, at 109 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/826-7081), has exquisite embroidery work, especially for children's clothing and bedding.

For silver, antique oddities, and traditional crafts, try Hong Hoa, on 18 Ngo Quyen St., near the Metropole Hotel (tel. 04/826-8341), which has a good selection. Giai Dieu, on 82 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/826-0222), has interesting lacquer paintings and decorative items, so stop in; you'll probably be in the neighborhood at some point. There is also a branch at 93 Ba Trieu St. Silver jewelry, handbags, and other ornaments are sold at 80 Hang Gai St. For fine ceramics, look to Quang's Ceramics, at 22 Hang Luoc St. (tel. 04/828-3440), in the Old Quarter. Unique lacquer ware, including business card holders and tissue boxes, can be had at DeltaDeco, 12 Nha Tho St. (tel. 04/828-9616). Wood, stone, and brass lacquer reproduction sculptures of religious icons are at KAF Traditional Sculptures and Art Accessories, 31B Ba Trieu St. (tel. 04/822-0022).

Art Galleries--Vietnam has a flourishing art scene, and Hanoi has many galleries of oil, silk, water, and lacquer paintings. Don't forget to bargain here, too. One of the best is Nam Son, at 41 Trang Tien (tel. 04/826-2993). Others include Thanh Mai, 64 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/825-1618); Apricot Gallery, 40B Hang Bong St. (tel. 04/828-8965); and Thang Long, 15 Hang Gai St. (tel. 04/825-0740), in the Old Quarter. Paintings are originals, meaning that they're painted by one artist and commonly not the factory-style knock-offs so popular in the rest of Asia, like Taiwan Art. But you're just buying copies here of well-known Vietnamese artists. The original that you buy today is being reproduced at the local art school and will be replaced by something identical when you walk out the door. Still, it's some nice stuff, and it's cheap for originals.

Books--For foreign books in Hanoi, check out one of the many shops lining Trang Tien Street, a popular backpacker repository and some good deals on photocopied bootlegs of regional sources and interesting cast-offs from other travelers. Also try Le Comptoirs, on the first floor of the Press Club; here they have all international papers and a good selection of new books.

Convenience--To pick up good snacks for a long train or bus ride, check out Intimex (tel. 04/825-6148), down a small alley at 22-23 Le Thai To St., on the west side of Hoan Kiem Lake. With groceries on the first floor and a small department store on the second level, you can find what you need. For Western wines and canned products from home, try the aptly named Western Canned Foods, at 66 Ba Trieu (tel. 04/822-9217), just south of Hoan Keim.